Mexico Easter 2003 - Part 11: Palenque ruins and jungle trek

“How I wish I could once again find my way to that foreign land where waits for me the message of love! Her language I knew not, but what her eyes said will forever remain eloquent in its anguish”

Bengal’s most famous figure - Rabindranath Tagore in “Sesh Lekha” (Last Writings) - 1940, one year before his death at 80. Tagore pens remarks about Victoria Ocampo, a beloved friend in Argentina.

14 April - Mayan ruins of Palenque and another blissful day

I had a marvellous breakfast at the restaurant, tried to have a shower after a queue of 10 Mexican families, and we left to see the archaelogical treasures of Palenque. These are some of the most impressive Mayan ruins - testament to a glorious Mayan Empire started in these parts by Lord Pacal. The sarcophagus of the ruler was closed, and so was the Temple of the Inscriptions, the the Temples of the Sun and others were open to walk up. As usual with Mayan pyramids, the steps are so far apart you get scared about tripping to certain death at the bottom, so it’s wise to take care on the uneven stones.

Bonnie and I met up by chance and we left early to lounge around the pool and campsite for the rest of the afternoon reading. The sun baked down like there was no tomorrow and it was shocking to watch an unstoppable colony of army ants and how they lived as a community. I followed the trail and saw that the ants had chewed straight through a tree that happened to be in their way. My respect for the jungle life around me was based on a lack of knowledge and fear. Studying the forest and being one with it was the best way to comprehend it. When we met back up for lunch, Sybren convinced Rojo (a big white Mexican with huge red beard and hair, hence rojo - red) to take us on a jungle trek in the afternoon. So we got kitted out, I got my boots on, and we set off with this gorgeous hippie Italian (now Mexican) girl called Celina. Celina strolled through the jungle without a sweat, like she was window shopping at a mall, while all of us sweated buckets because of the work and humidity. I don’t think I have ever sweated this much ever for two straight hours.

Rojo had a huge frame, but was a jungle expert. He showed us edible fruits and berries and took us around the edges of an unexcavated Mayan temple, it’s secrets still unknown. I saw spiders the size of my feet many times. I remember Celina giving me a berry which made my tongue numb and painful until the evening at the restaurant. Now two other things - Rojo is also the flagship musician with his guitar at the bar at Maya Bell every night, and I watched him last night (playing rhythmic guitar from Veracruz) and we shall watch him today of course. Also, I’ve been teaching a guy who works at the gift shop some Bob Marley as he is new on the guitar. Like I’ve mentioned yesterday, this place is hippy, extremely cool and best appreciated by truly independently-minded people. The community spirit here defies belief.

After the jungle trek, it was a direct unstoppable dive into the swimming pool, followed by drinking lots of water. I sat down with an Italian who played such amazing guitar and harmonica it made my heart slow down. It sounded like Enigma. Then it transitioned and began sounding rhythmic and playful like Manu Chao. After cooking a good meal, we went to the bar, after which I retired back to my hammock for a second night. The bites on my feet didn’t really matter to me. I don’t know why.

The howling monkeys were making eerie noises, the Palenque night is the finest orchestra to find sleep to. This time, I slept in my sheet, because between 5-6 in the morning a humid cold spell strikes which makes one get into a sweat and lose heat really quickly. The rest of the time, the mosquitoes kept away (smoking helped). Birds and iguanas decided to sometimes empty their poo on me from high above somewhere. I didn’t mind - I felt chosen and blessed.

Photos from this day

At the Palenque ruins

At the Palenque ruins